There are two things you should know about me:

1) I like to walk.

2) I like to go against the curve.

Sometimes this backfires on me, like it did when I got off the boat in Capri.

I had already had a quite aerobic morning climbing up and down the hundreds of thousands of stairs (at least, that’s what it seemed like) at the port in Sorrento (read the post here).  But when the ferry pulled into the harbor on the Island of Capri and all off the other tourists veered right to catch the bus up to Capri town, I spotted a sign for “Capri” with an area pointing left and decided to explore and walk there instead.

This is all I saw for thirty minutes:

Now, perhaps I should’ve seen a silver lining here.  I’ve read a couple of other people’s blog entries talking about the wonderful magic of walking Via Truglio, wondering about the homes and gardens on the other sides of the walls, the magic and mystery and beauty of it.

I was just pissed off.

When I thought of walking up to Capri town, I thought of beautiful views of the bay or of the town.  Perhaps I’d run into some locals, see old men in their gardens or women hanging up laundry while children played jumprope in the yard.

Instead, all I saw where tall stone walls enclosing a narrow lane that seemed to go on FOREVER.  No people, no homes, no gardens, no enchantment, and at this point in my solo trip my imagination was too exhausted to get any enjoyment out of “wondering”.  I had no idea where I was or if this tiny cobbled pathway would actually lead to the main part of Capri.  There were no turn-offs; it was either go forward or admit defeat and turn around to take the bus from the port…

… which I’m WAY too stubborn to even consider.

Finally, I came to a crossroad where I found this sign:

So now at least I had a name for my hell.

Ok, ok – that may be a tad dramatic.  Whatever.  Just be forewarned: If you don’t want to take the bus from the port to the town square, don’t expect to see sprawling vistas on the walk up.  On another day I might’ve considered it an adventure, but on that day I just wanted to scream (if only there had been anyone around to hear me!).  Hopefully my warning will save you from feeling as grumpy as I did when you walk Via Truglio.  You’re welcome :)



2 Responses

  1. gennaro

    Signora, Hope this gets thru cause I NEVER do Facebook or any other medium to communicate. I like to walk also , and have walked the Capri trail more than once. Should you ever experience an unpleasant walk in another country I expect that will feverently express the same unpleasant reaction as you do with Capri. Somehow those that profess to love Italy seem to enjoy vitrolic exptessions. However shoild they have negative experiences in other countries…they shut up.

    • Jess

      Really? I only ever hear how perfect Italy is from people! ;-) if you’d care to email me I could tell you about good and bad experiences in a multitude of places. Nothing personal :)


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